Temples

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Myanmar - Yangon’s Grit to Bagan’s Temples

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Despite how arid Bagan is, there is plenty of green around.

Despite how arid Bagan is, there is plenty of green around.

Alt-J - 3WW

Myanmar, the rough and gritty, the country you have to go to before it becomes Thailand, or so we read on many blogs. Yes, maybe, but first is Myanmar the character, the beautiful, and the troubled - a country with one of the longest civil wars between its ethnic groups.

Umbrellas shielding the midday sun and impending storm at the golden Shwedagon Pagoda. Also, have we mentioned we have to walk barefoot at every temple, pagoda, and shrine?

Umbrellas shielding the midday sun and impending storm at the golden Shwedagon Pagoda. Also, have we mentioned we have to walk barefoot at every temple, pagoda, and shrine?

Burgundy robed monks seeking shade and conversation.

Burgundy robed monks seeking shade and conversation.

Yangon

Madie and I land in Yangon and head over to T Venus B&B, a modest hotel near the university, in a taxi honking its way through the streets. It’s a sudden, stark contrast from our short episodes in Singapore, Taipei, and Japan. We’re back in South East Asia, back in a country still torn between the first and second worlds. Long traffic jams allow us see the small streets of rough unfinished buildings, with street vendors selling animal guts, and laundry hanging above stacks of trash and open sewers. Most cars are Hondas with right-hand drivers seats living a second life, but here we drive on the right. The buses are worn down, patched up - this one passing by has an old rope holding the engine door. They’re led by a 3-man team: the driver, the money man, and the hustler announcing stops and pulling people on board when the bus doesn’t quite stop. They’re all chewing paan, the betel leaf mixed with tobacco, mint, and spices, with deep red spit and teeth.

After settling in the room, and the obligatory mosquito net upgrade after killing one and creating a large bloodstain, we head out for a walk around town, the nearby mall and a luxurious-but-cheap lunch with green tea leaf salad and beef curries - a mix of Thai, Indonesian, and Indian food, as best as we can tell.  We can’t quite figure it out until the end of the first day but this place reminds us of the Philippines - rough, gritty, full of people simply making do with what they have. But as all guides and websites say, everyone is nice and helpful. No one seems to care about conning us, a nice change from the too-famed Thailand. We both agree that this is more a place for us than the likes of China, Singapore, or Taipei. We enjoyed all those places, but the rough edges are what attracts us. A place where we feel a bit more welcome, after all. 

A female monk at the Shwedagon Pagoda.

A female monk at the Shwedagon Pagoda.

We make our way to the Shwedagon Pagoda, a grand Buddhist temple believed to hold relics of the last four Buddhas. We pay a small fee to enter and marvel, barefoot, at the golden stupa and the few surrounding temples for each Buddha. Tourists are seldom, and the vending stalls are not aggressive. Someone approaches us, already on our guards, but he’s simply a monk wanting to practice his English. We give our respects to the many Buddhas. I promise myself (again) to meditate more.

Getting lost in the land of temples and pagodas.

Getting lost in the land of temples and pagodas.

The Burmese script is so beautiful to me, full of circles and loops, blending harmoniously with the ironwork of the gate. Must be so fun to write.

The Burmese script is so beautiful to me, full of circles and loops, blending harmoniously with the ironwork of the gate. Must be so fun to write.

Bagan

A twelve-hour bus ride takes us to Bagan, the obligatory stop in Myanmar. The town and region is the home of 2200 temples and pagodas dating from the 9th to 13th centuries. For three days, our homestay wakes us up with green tea leaf salad and coconut pastries before we head out on an electric scooter to explore the area. The landscape is otherworldly, famous for its hot air balloon rides (but it’s not the season for it). We stick to the ground, driving on dirt trails to the sound of Madie’s laugh; navigating through large temples, respectfully barefoot despite the obvious guano perfuming the place; climbing hidden staircases of pagodas for the perfect sunset; and finally, heading home on an almost dead battery.

Bagan is still working on its UNESCO certification, due to the poor rehabilitation of the sites uncovered by the last earthquakes, including the 6.8 magnitude tremor that hit a month before we arrived. Despite it, it shows an incredible and unique richness we haven’t found anywhere else, in its people, history, and the infinite array of edifices of the region. We leave already, on another twelve-hour bus ride to the other unmissable region of Myanmar, Inle Lake.

So many stupas! Over 2000 individual structures, in fact - a mere fifth of the amount that existed during the height of the Kingdom of Pagan a thousand years ago. We spent a few days exploring these brick temples, pagodas, and shrines on our e-…

So many stupas! Over 2000 individual structures, in fact - a mere fifth of the amount that existed during the height of the Kingdom of Pagan a thousand years ago. We spent a few days exploring these brick temples, pagodas, and shrines on our e-bikes, shielding dust storms, tracking UNESCO inspectors, avoiding bat droppings, and chasing sunsets... all while being barefoot. The green crowned monument is Sulamani Pahto, sadly damaged by the 6.8 magnitude earthquake in August 2016.

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Japan - Kuidaore in Osaka, Ukiyo in Kyoto

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On our first afternoon in Kyoto we climbed the small tree-covered mountain of Inari to pass through its 10,000 torii (gates), some of which date back to 711 AD. 

On our first afternoon in Kyoto we climbed the small tree-covered mountain of Inari to pass through its 10,000 torii (gates), some of which date back to 711 AD. 

Bonobo - 7th Sevens

We’re on a short flight from Shanghai to Osaka, Japan. China has a strong character, and it started to weigh on us. We enjoyed it as much as other countries, especially its food, culture, and grand sights, though it was not always welcoming (not unlike the streets of Paris). As with other border crossings, we try to reset, remove feelings of the last country and preconceptions of the next, but this time it takes a bit more effort; there’s more to erase, past and future. We have high hopes for Japan and its culture, knowing it more than other countries we’ve been to. Me, from my early childhood days watching anime in the morning (Club Dorothée is deeply ingrained in me) to all the Murakami books I’ve devoured the past ten years, and more recently, all the mangas filling the long bus rides of our travels. Madie, studied Japanese for three years in high school (おはよ ございます、 さかはら せんせい!).

The beautiful Osaka Castle, surrounded and protected by several large moats, gates, and bridges. This landmark played a major role in the unification of Japan during the sixteenth century, and was level one of Alex’s Pokémon Go adventure.

The beautiful Osaka Castle, surrounded and protected by several large moats, gates, and bridges. This landmark played a major role in the unification of Japan during the sixteenth century, and was level one of Alex’s Pokémon Go adventure.

Osaka

It is a common theme that we don’t know anything about anywhere. As soon as we land, we’re hit by the food kingdom that is Osaka. The airport arrival has a flurry of renowned restaurants. We start the day with tonkatsu, to fill Madie’s heart. The Japanese language and deep bows welcome us warmly. The giggles come back to her face - this is a good sign.

It’s a complicated train ride to town, setting the pace for what will be an amazing twelve days in Japan. I feel out of place. My clothes are dirty; I’m stinky, sweaty, and hairy; we’re the only ones with giant backpacks. The train and subway crowds are orderly. Most men are in black or deep blue suits with white shirts. Women are coquettish, pretty and simple. We walk through Osaka’s business district for two kilometers. The hotel is nice, classy even. Kimonos, the smell of cigarettes, and a toilet with too many buttons wait for us in our tiny room. We thank credit card points for letting us visit Japan. At $80 a night for the cheapest place we could find, we could not have afforded it any other way.

We didn’t know much about Osaka when we booked our tickets, but it has quickly stolen our hearts with its food, its people, its pace, and its scenic river walks. (Alex said it reminded him of Lyon.) Here’s a much busier side of town, albeit still ch…

We didn’t know much about Osaka when we booked our tickets, but it has quickly stolen our hearts with its food, its people, its pace, and its scenic river walks. (Alex said it reminded him of Lyon.) Here’s a much busier side of town, albeit still charming at golden hour.

It is a love affair with Osaka, or rather a one-night-stand - a passionate fling of indulgence and decadence. We find a few blog posts for restaurant tips and decide to explore the city following its best plates, bowls, and skewers. The airport started us with delicious tonkatsu, our first traditional meal with all the fixings. Dinner is a variant of ramen we’ll never find again, with a richly flavored paste sitting at the bottom of the bowl. (Close to tsukemen, but not a broth.) Pastries for snacks, one after the other, few rivaling the best bakeries in France. “That’s what a Cronut should taste like,” Madie will boldly exclaim, deeply falling for the Little Mermaid pastry shop. After a mandatory visit to the Osaka Castle, and a first Pokémon GO adventure (it was fitting to start there), we eat sushi at a small hole-in-the-wall recommended by Migrationology, find takoyaki, fried octopus balls, and matcha green tea ice cream to finish off. We take a short break of 90 minutes, strolling in the shopping district, amongst the bright colors of pachinkos and fake food stores. We’re back on okonomiyaki, bonito flakes twisting around, then walk another 15 minutes for yakitori - in a restaurant known for using all parts of the pig (and yes, we had all parts). Our first 36 hours in Japan, we already hit six food stops. The pounds we lost in the past four months are back and then some. But we’re happy. And desperately full. I catch a couple more Pidgeys and fall deeply asleep feeling like a Snorlax.

Our yakitori chef behind the grill. Loved the feel of this place... Old wood, sake bottles, and smoke permeating the air. 

Our yakitori chef behind the grill. Loved the feel of this place... Old wood, sake bottles, and smoke permeating the air. 

We made a special trip from Osaka to Kobe to have wagyu beef at La Shomon. This photo doesn’t do it justice, but it was the best meal of our four months on the road so far, and perhaps the best beef we've ever had. As @meandfrenchie would say, it wa…

We made a special trip from Osaka to Kobe to have wagyu beef at La Shomon. This photo doesn’t do it justice, but it was the best meal of our four months on the road so far, and perhaps the best beef we've ever had. As @meandfrenchie would say, it was like butter.

Perfectly marbled Kobe beef.

Perfectly marbled Kobe beef.

Kobe

We head to Kobe, home of the famous wagyu beef, on (what should have been) a 30 minute train ride. After getting lost for 2 hours in the JR train system, we finally make it to La Shomon (焼肉バル) and have the best meal of our trip, and the best beef we’ve ever had, for only $20 each (another gem from Migrationology). Additional pastries bought at the train station, we hop on our ride back, mischievous children in school uniforms accompanying us. For our readers watching anime, the Japanese train rides look just like that: a quiet train passing through suburban Japan, peaceful neighborhoods of single homes, always allowing nature to peek through, most people traveling on bike or trains, and youthful voices creating the soundtrack. Tempura closes our first volume of food adventures.

Kinkaku-ji’s story is one of rebirth. The original 500+ year old structure was burned in 1950 when a young monk attempted suicide. Five years later it was rebuilt, covered in gold to purify the temple of negative thoughts about death, and crowned wi…

Kinkaku-ji’s story is one of rebirth. The original 500+ year old structure was burned in 1950 when a young monk attempted suicide. Five years later it was rebuilt, covered in gold to purify the temple of negative thoughts about death, and crowned with a golden phoenix. No wonder it’s one of Kyoto’s most visited sites.

The stunning bamboo forest in Arashiyama on the west side of Kyoto. Did you know some bamboo species grow one meter a day? Incredible! 

The stunning bamboo forest in Arashiyama on the west side of Kyoto. Did you know some bamboo species grow one meter a day? Incredible! 

Kyoto

We make our way to Kyoto and explore the many gates of Fushimi Inari Daisha after a filling lunch of loco moco, tonkatsu, and my very first fresh tofu - which I now understand I’ve been missing out on this entire time. After performing the water ritual at the crowded entrance, we hike further into the park, hoping to lose the few tourists. We cross path multiple times with a smiling grandpa, helping us find our way. I wonder if he has a side-quest for us, but he is only here for Shinrin-Yoku (森林浴), literally “forest bathing,” a word for a visit to the forest for relaxation and health. The park is a complex of Japanese shrines: thousands of bright orange gates, set in a deep green forest amongst the dark grays of traditional tombs. We learn the word Komorebi (木漏れ日), “sunlight shining through the leaves of trees.” China had a sense for the epic; Japan has a profound one for the aesthetic, the tasteful and subtle beauty, the perfect harmony. Geishas pass by, some are simply locals dressing up, others are the ‘real’ ones, entertainers of the Gion district. Ukiyo (浮世 "floating world") describes the urban lifestyle, especially the pleasure-seeking aspects of this world. 

After a two hour hike through the park, Madie and I cool down with amazake, a cold, sweet, fermented rice drink with ginger, and agree that if we had the opportunity to live here, we’d probably do it. The high-pitched laughter of children echo from a nearby elementary school - the usual trigger for us to think about the future. Our dinner is a bowl of rice and raw fish on which we pour dashi, the tasty Japanese broth. We pick up on a new tradition, eating yogurt (or chocolate pudding) at night in our tiny hotel room. 

Kyoto, Japan's most beautiful city, home to thousands of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, and where local and foreign tourists dress in the most vibrant kimonos to tour them. 

Kyoto, Japan's most beautiful city, home to thousands of Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines, and where local and foreign tourists dress in the most vibrant kimonos to tour them. 

Inari is the kami (spirit that is worshipped in Shinto religion) of prosperity, success, and rice. It’s why many companies and businesses donate a vermilion-colored shrine - for thanks and hope for more good fortune. Here you can see their name…

Inari is the kami (spirit that is worshipped in Shinto religion) of prosperity, success, and rice. It’s why many companies and businesses donate a vermilion-colored shrine - for thanks and hope for more good fortune. Here you can see their names engraved on the pillars.

Taking a break at the temple garden.

Taking a break at the temple garden.

Young girls dressed as gieshas in Kyoto.

Young girls dressed as gieshas in Kyoto.

Ending the day and our time in Kyoto at the viewpoint by Kiyomizu-dera. Still so much left to explore here. We will surely be back.

Ending the day and our time in Kyoto at the viewpoint by Kiyomizu-dera. Still so much left to explore here. We will surely be back.

Kyoto, home of Emperors and Japan’s capital for a millennia before Tokyo, is reputed the most beautiful city in the country and carries high hopes for the traveler - it did not disappoint. For the next days, we do our best to explore the city - amongst the tall greens of Arashimaya, the bamboo forest where a Meowth hides; at a sunset at Kiyomizu-dera, a temple in a light drizzle; along the Philosopher’s Path with matcha ice cream; in a peaceful cemetery. We make the obligatory visit to Kinkaku-ji, the golden temple and its proud Phoenix remembering the monk who attempted suicide by fire; we meander through the Imperial Park, finally resting under the red gate of Shishinden, until the next matcha ice cream at Ninen-zaka after dark; we properly learn the water purification ritual at the zen gardens of Ryōan-ji and Higashiyama Jisho-ji. We stroll for kilometers, powered by minced tuna rice bowls, okonomiyaki and, what the heck, the best pizza we’ve had in a long time. My Pokémon score is off the charts. 

We’re love-struck, longing to see Japan in the winter, spring, and fall. The aesthetic is omnipresent, harmony is ingrained in Japan’s culture, and the pursuit of being better in its philosophy. It’s peaceful, easy even, a feeling we haven’t had since we left - a breath of fresh air after four months in Asia.

And as with all refreshing breaths of air, fill it up with soup, ramen, if possible, one for her and tsukemen for me. Kuidaore (食い倒れ) is the Japanese word for “eating yourself to bankruptcy.”  Tomorrow, we wake up early for a ride to a different world, the Japanese Alps. We won’t quite go to sleep before another yogurt and a couple Ratatats, though.


Links

  • Osaka is reputed for the best food in Japan. From what we can tell, it is well deserved. Migrationology has a great post on his favorite spots. It is also a cheap flight from Shanghai, and well-connected by train.
  • Kobe is only a 30 minute train ride away. It’d be a shame to miss the best beef in the world. We chose to go to La Shomon, recommended by Migrationology for its relatively inexpensive prices.
  • Kyoto is 90 minutes away by train from Osaka. The historical sites are endless, and in only 3-4 days there, we missed too many places (including the manga museum!). The golden temple Kinkaku-ji, the bamboo forest Arashimaya, and the Imperial palace are the most touristic spots, but we particularly enjoyed walking in Fushimi Inari-taisha, the Philosopher’s Path, and Ryōan-ji. 
  • Few websites will recommend a JR Pass for a week or two. While it may seem like a good option, be aware that:
    • It can only be purchased outside of Japan.
    • It only allows travel on JR trains (there are many other local tracks and companies).
    • It is limited in time (one or two weeks). Lots of travel needs to be done in a short time to make it worth it. At our pace, only the two-week pass would have saved us money.
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Cambodia - Angkor (or The Temple Overdose)

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Monks at Sras Srang.

Monks at Sras Srang.

The Rolling Stones - Gimme Shelter

We almost went to Laos instead. To Madie’s despair, I hate planning; I prefer a rough trajectory and improvisation over a solid plan (hopefully no one from work is reading this - or maybe they’ll realize that’s what I’ve been doing all along). Our tickets from Bangkok to Vientiane, Laos were purchased as a potential throw-away flight since customs often requires an onward destination. After virtually shredding them to pieces, we prioritize Cambodia and leave Laos to later. Maybe.

What attracted us to Cambodia is Angkor, a region famous for its many temples built during the high days of the Khmer empire, more than 800 years ago. But as soon as we landed, Cambodia felt like so much more. We had read about some of its tumultuous history, but nothing prepared us for the deep emotions we’d feel in Cambodia, high and low.

We land in Siem Reap, settling in a German guesthouse with the best (and only) currywurst in town. The owner’s German roots are apparent, with the most efficient receipt log we’ve seen, best tips, and profoundly nice words for the recent terrors in the US and France. It’s the cheapest room of the house, close to the kitchen and his own room. The owner’s wife, Cambodian, offers us the widest and most sincere smile - while the “No Sex Tourist” sign reminds us of where we are. We venture out for lunch only to be caught by a torrential rain and take shelter at a pharmacy while I eat my necessary ration of Magnum ice cream. We quickly go back to the room, upgrade it with our mosquito nets and turn on both fans to cool down and rest while the rain keeps falling. 

A common scene around here, and one of our favorites.

A common scene around here, and one of our favorites.

Riding through the countryside of Cambodia.

Riding through the countryside of Cambodia.

Warm earth tones color this part of Cambodia.

Warm earth tones color this part of Cambodia.

There is something in the air we don’t quite comprehend yet. We had expected “yet another” South East Asian country with the usual quirks: littered streets, loud rackets, roaming dogs, rough elbows below the belt, cheap food and good deals. But the food is not cheap and deals are hard to find. The streets, albeit not fancy, are well kept and the roads are in good shape. But more fundamentally, we’re taken over by the genuine generosity and good spirit of the Cambodian people. It’s in the peaceful ride to town, in the lasting smile of the random local, in the offered chairs at the pharmacy and in the contagious laugh of our tricycle driver. People help, with nothing expected in return. A truly rare thing in Asia as we’ve come to know. It may be because of a Buddhist culture, of a local economy dependent on tourism, or a violent (and too recent) past. The Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot took over the country in the 70s, and conducted a massive social experiment of communism in the country, resulting in a genocide of around 2 million people, a quarter of the Cambodian population. This country suffered atrocities very few nations know, a mere generation ago. This opens our eyes to our surroundings: a country with a young population, 50% of them are under 22 (have we seen anyone over 50 around?), a country with a deep scar still too fresh. The feeling in the air might be a kind of exhaustion shared by an entire population, simply willing to rest for a little while.

The best way to get around, and so far, our favorite form of tuk-tuk in SE Asia! (Imagine a small horse carriage attached to a moto.) 

The best way to get around, and so far, our favorite form of tuk-tuk in SE Asia! (Imagine a small horse carriage attached to a moto.) 

Our friend Lee will be taking us to see the Angkor temples for a few days in this cool ride. 

Our friend Lee will be taking us to see the Angkor temples for a few days in this cool ride. 

We arrange three days of temple visits on a motorized tricycle and meet Lee, our joyful driver. With a clear path to a temple overdose, we trust him for the ride and hope for the best. We’re not disappointed. We leave early every day and explore all the temples we can find, with interludes of long slow rides in flat lands and Lee’s stories. After the introductory small temple and the too-dry Sras Srang, we visit the pink sandstone walls of Banteay Srei, and its detailed carvings already a millennium old. In the heat of the day, we marvel on the old stone among the Chinese tourist bus that just came by, loudly claiming its presence. The gates and face of Ta Som greet us on the way back, giving us shelter from the sun and the many tourists (which I wholeheartedly declare that we are too, just quieter). 

Preah Khan will be the highlight of the day, built in the 12th century to honor the emperor’s father, and after many wars - taken back over by nature. Left largely unrestored, we get to explore its paths until a spectacular end, with a large strangler fig tree (I think?) standing dominantly over the gate. Madie hums the Indiana Jones theme as she will many times over the next days. I choose to be with Lara Croft considering Madie has the perfect outfit.

On the left, two giant silk-cotton trees overtake the southern towers of Preah Khan.

On the left, two giant silk-cotton trees overtake the southern towers of Preah Khan.

Wooden bridges built over the heaps of destruction at Beng Mealea. 

Wooden bridges built over the heaps of destruction at Beng Mealea. 

The following day starts with a two-hour tricycle ride through the flat land. The heat and sun slap us in the face, but we’re quickly recovered by the sight of farm lands, yelling children and young girls on bicycles. Houses on stilts and rice fields surround us as we drive in the hot air of the countryside. We get to Beng Mealea and traverse the temple, unfortunately swarmed a few minutes before by the unwanted bus. We marvel at the breathtaking surroundings and the strong selfie game all around us. Third place to the Chinese grandmas clumsily posing on a liana brance one after the other. Second place to the forced picture with the white baby. Grand prize: the solo middle-age male traveler with a camera stand, running to his photo site many times for the perfect picture.

But it’s time to get back to the ride and the next temples, in Roluos. We climb the high steps and rest alone at the top. Smiles are there, and despite the heat, we get to hold hands - knowing how precious our time here is. As we get to the tricycle, Lee tells us of Kem Ley, national activist and hero of many, who just died, shot at a gas station. Lee’s unbreakable joy left, and a deep sadness set in. Not all is well in Cambodia, rated 150 out of 168 on the corruption index - many activists have died, with suspect actions from the government. Kem Ley strongly criticized the Prime Minister a few days before he was shot (his death was condemned by the US and UN, requiring full investigation). Rain breaks as soon as we get back to the hotel. Good, Madie and I have a lot more reading to do to even attempt to understand this country. Hopefully, the $5 Korean BBQ dinner will help.

One of 216 smiling stone faces at the Bayon Temple in Angkor, Cambodia.

One of 216 smiling stone faces at the Bayon Temple in Angkor, Cambodia.

On our last day of visits, we go through the many faces of Bayon, high temples, heat, pools and park, and start to overdose. Another torrential rain starts as we onboard for the next ride, cooling us off and bringing smiles to our face. I get to hold Madie’s hand again as we drive slowly through the downpour. We take advantage of it and sit for an hour in the shelter of the tricycle with Lee, talking about his past life, his girlfriend, and the country. He looks young, but he’s already been through many adventures, from being a monk for seven years, selling fruits in Thailand as an illegal immigrant, to here in Siem Reap as a driver, making money for his family and girlfriend, both a day of travel away. His sadness receded and is replaced by the laugh we know. Lee, as many people here, stays hopeful.

Finding shelter at Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Finding shelter at Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

As the rain recedes, we step out the tricycle and finally make our way to the most famous temple of the area, Angkor Wat. As soon as we step onto the stone bridge, the rain doubles up and gets us smiling under our ponchos. Three mischevious kids run around and jump off the 8-meter-high bridge to the river below, quickly climbing back up to go at it again. The rain, as it turns out, is a blessing; we see the complex as few have seen: not overcrowded with people. As we adventure inside, monks also run by to take shelter - as I remember they also live on the premises. At the center, Angkor Wat shows all its magnificence, built 800 years ago, as if it was carved from a single stone - the perfect high of our overdose. At last, we get back to the guesthouse, washed out and saddened to say goodbye to Lee.

Angkor Wat was the finale of our three days of temple-hopping in Siem Reap. We were both awestruck in front of this grand monument - the largest religious site in the world.

Angkor Wat was the finale of our three days of temple-hopping in Siem Reap. We were both awestruck in front of this grand monument - the largest religious site in the world.

The next day, we head to the other side of Cambodia, aboard a crazy bus ride (which we’re now used to) to Mondulkiri, a refuge for elephants.

 

Links

  • Siem Reap is the main gateway for the Angkor region. It is easy to fly from Thailand or Vietnam, or take a 6h bus ride from Phnom Penh.
  • The Angkor region has many many many temples. Most notably, and not to be missed:
    • Angkor Wat, the postcard one (just make sure it’s rainy as hell if you want a good photo)
    • Bayon, with its many faces
    • Preah Khan, my personal favorite - for full Indiana Jones and Lara Croft feels (with a dash of Uncharted)
    • Banteay Srei, one of the oldest, with unique pink sandstones and carvings
    • Ta Prohm, for the awesome strangling tree picture
    • Beng Mealea, a little bit further but well worth the trip
  • We stayed at Schein Guesthouse and highly recommend it! Delicious and filling breakfast, and the best currywurst of our trip so far!