Sure, New Orleans is a large city, with over 9 million visitors a year, but it still has a very local feel. There’s no doubt that you have to walk through the French Quarter and Garden District, and eat beignets at Cafe du Monde... but there are so many other places to see and things to do away from the crowds of people in the streets with drinks in hand. It all starts with staying in the Tremé — the historic neighborhood that's the center of the city’s African-American and Créole culture.
We arrived at our Airbnb close to midnight, and the owner was throwing a little tango “shindig,” as he says. I had just re-watched “Midnight in Paris” (love Owen Wilson!), and it truly felt like a scene out of that movie. I mean, here we are in our jeans and yoga pants, entering an enchanting party set in the 1920s: a beautifully weathered historical house, with high ceilings, distressed walls, and chandeliers, tango music playing, dancers dancing, and the warm, humid, Louisiana breeze blowing softly through the open windows. They said to help ourselves to wine, so we grabbed a glass, walked throughout the house, and sat outside on the porch well past midnight.