Ecotourism

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Cambodia - Mondulkiri, The Elephants’ Bath

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With the Mondulkiri Project, we spent the day feeding, bathing, and observing six elephants in forests of East Cambodia. This is Sophie, one of the older elephants of the pack, and still active as ever.

With the Mondulkiri Project, we spent the day feeding, bathing, and observing six elephants in forests of East Cambodia. This is Sophie, one of the older elephants of the pack, and still active as ever.

Tame Impala - Elephant

Close to the border with Vietnam, on the far east of Cambodia, is Mondulkiri, a region seldom visited by tourists who can only think of Angkor Wat. That was also our mistake, until we discovered @thenomadiclondoner’s experience with a rescue project for elephants. Madie and I briefly discuss: “Should we try to go?” - “When are we ever going to have a chance to bathe with elephants?” (We had already missed Chiang Mai.)

It’s the Year of Yes after all. 

The eastern side of Cambodia is so unexpectedly green and lush. Such a change from scenes in Siem Reap.

The eastern side of Cambodia is so unexpectedly green and lush. Such a change from scenes in Siem Reap.

It will take two scary six-hour bus rides, stopping for a night in Phnom Penh, missing the famous Killing Fields, and speeding through the countryside of Cambodia fully exercising the Rule of the Biggest Car on the Road. After weeks in Asia, we were almost used to it, or rather, we knew there wasn’t much we could do but wait and hope we wouldn’t hit anything. This bus at least, has AC and comfortable seats. I dive into my Kindle, munching on rambutans - our new favorite fruit - and fried crickets generously offered by my neighbor.

We get to Sen Monorom, the main town of the region, at night. After a failed attempt to call the guesthouse, the nearby locals help us - as we’ve grown accustomed to in Cambodia. The ride to the Tree Lodge is in the back of a pickup truck, amongst another eight adventurers and their backpacks. I cling loosely to the top of the cabin, my ass falling off the side panel of the truck, feeling the rain on my cheek. We fill up on Khmer curry and settle into our $7 bungalow (with hot water, please). Our sleep is heavy, full of apprehension; I wake up fast, eager to spend time with the gentle giants. Banana & Nutella pancakes later, we get hauled onto another pick-up. I’m half sitting on a colossal amount of bananas in the back - Madie stuck between them and another elephant enthusiast - as we drive through the fields of the scenic Mondulkiri region. We park and each get a large heavy bag to transport down, as we try to follow Mr. Tree as best as we can. 

The Tree Lodge, owned by Mr. Tree, who also guides the wonderful Mondulkiri Project.

The Tree Lodge, owned by Mr. Tree, who also guides the wonderful Mondulkiri Project.

Before we get to see the elephants, Mr. Tree sits us around for a hearted discourse on this place and his organization’s goals. The Mondulkiri Project is a rescue program, aiming to give elephants a better retirement than transporting tourists or working in the logging industry. No one rides elephants here, not even the guides, called mahouts. The organization also helps protect the surrounding rainforest and the nearby tribal community, the Bunong, providing them with jobs (over 200), healthcare and education. I naively ask if the government is of any help, only to work up Mr. Tree and understand that the Cambodian government not only does not help, but almost often finds a way to get rid of individuals too successful of bringing about change. Mr. Tree’s project is humble, and growing one elephant at a time. 

“All good things are wild and free.” - Henry David Thoreau

“All good things are wild and free.” - Henry David Thoreau

We walk through the forest, a bunch of bananas in our hands, and wait at a clearing. At the end appears Comvine, a 30-year-old elephant female, walking towards us as my heartbeat quickens. She takes sweet bananas out of our hands and quickly gulps them down, reaching immediately for more. Her trunk, warm and wet, is also nosy and inquisitive, as she searches for the next fruit by smell. We follow her for a while as Mr. Tree explains her past life carrying tourists. The parks in Siem Reap attempted to buy her, as they had bought her mother, but the Mondulkiri Project was able to secure enough funding to purchase her instead.

The young Comvine of the Mondulkiri Project.

The young Comvine of the Mondulkiri Project.

A quick walk back to the hut, we meet the other elephants: Sophie, Lucky, Happy, Moon and Princess. All female and only one still able to bear calves. (Mr. Tree is still saving up for a male.) We will spend the next hour simply being with them, exchanging looks and feeding them. Some have holes in their ears, a sign of their past lives of logging and carrying heavy equipment. Others have a broken back, often caused by the planks used to take people on elephant rides.

Elephants are always in search of food, as they are said to eat nearly 20 hours a day!

Elephants are always in search of food, as they are said to eat nearly 20 hours a day!

Loved watching the different ways our group fed the elephants.

Loved watching the different ways our group fed the elephants.

Up close and personal.

Up close and personal.

View from behind.

View from behind.

After a short lunch and nap, we approach a nearby river for the highlight of our day: a bath with the elephants. We all get in the water as Comvine approaches again, guided by a mahout, she dives in the water with us. Her happy ears flap as we do our best to scrub and spray water. We all hover around her, armed with more food and carefully treading the waters to not get our toes smashed by her giant feet. Princess joins us later, doing in the water what even princesses do: poop - thankfully downstream. Happy follows her into the water, leaving quickly as soon as we run out of bananas. We’ll watch the other three (less gentle) elephants bathe themselves at another river nearby.

As the adventure ends, we all head back to the lodge, our heads full of elephants, and our ears slightly bigger. We leave Cambodia a few days later after resting in Phnom Penh, unfortunately missing the Killing Fields (again). We have to rest some days after all.

In only nine days, Cambodia left a big impression on both of us. Angkor was a breathtaking region but the country has a lot more to offer, the majority still unexplored by most travelers - maybe what Indonesia was like 20 years ago. But Cambodia is still bruised from its all too recent history. As we’ve come to understand, there is a lot of work left, especially with attaining a more democratic government. Despite this, the Cambodian people are the gentlest and most hopeful we’ve met, and I’m betting on Mr. Tree. 


Links

  • The Mondulkiri province is the easternmost region of Cambodia. It is a 6-hour drive from Phnom Penh, or a 9 to 10-hour (painful) drive from Siem Reap in an express tourist bus. You can easily find transportation options through your hotel in Cambodia.
  • The Mondulkiri Project is a great non-profit in care for the elephants, the forest and tribal communities. Make sure to book a couple days ahead! We saw a few people get turned away. We were also recommended the Elephant Valley Project by @thenomadiclondoner. Whatever you pick, please be careful of tours or organizations without care for elephants. 
  • We slept at the Tree Lodge in Sen Monorom, starting point for all hikes with the Mondulkiri Project and also a business of Mr. Tree. Food was delicious, bathroom was wild, and beds were awesome (albeit some mice poop on day two - there are warning signs!).
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Indonesia - Greens & Oranges of Bukit Lawang, Sumatra

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Our trekking mate Joh and the last group of orangutans that we played with at Gunung Leuser National Park in North Sumatra, Indonesia. Truly an amazing experience.

Our trekking mate Joh and the last group of orangutans that we played with at Gunung Leuser National Park in North Sumatra, Indonesia. Truly an amazing experience.

Beirut - After the Curtain

We are on the last leg of our trip in Indonesia, heading to its west-most island, Sumatra. Despite its proximity to Malaysia and Singapore, it is a detour few people make - with fewer roads, smaller airports and any destination within the island is bound to take a day or two. But we come with two specific goals: the jungle and the orangutans of the Gunung Leuser National Park.

A short flight from Jakarta bring us to Medan in the morning. Having read too much about the bus stations scams and the touts, we do our best to avoid them and try to talk directly with the minibus driver, to no avail. We’re not very good at it, this time, losing our wits and forgetting to walk a little more to avoid them; we’re a little pressed for time if we want to get to our destination before nightfall. After paying too much, we finally hop into a small rusty 10-seater for the bumpiest ride we’ve ever had; for four hours, we’ll be jumping off our seats as the driver goes through large potholes on dirt roads, a real gold mine for a suspension repair shop (its a few days later that we’ll understand it could have been worse - the return ride to Medan will be filled with 24 people). With our spines a couple inches shorter, we finally get to Bukit Lawang, a small village at the entrance of Gunung Leuser National Park, home of wild orangutans, elephants, and tigers.

It was a day-long journey to get to Bukit Lawang from Jojga - two flights, two buses, a tuk tuk, and a walk uphill in the rain (in flip flops!), but it was worth it. This village is a secluded playground set in the jungle next to a river, with warm,…

It was a day-long journey to get to Bukit Lawang from Jojga - two flights, two buses, a tuk tuk, and a walk uphill in the rain (in flip flops!), but it was worth it. This village is a secluded playground set in the jungle next to a river, with warm, resilient people. In 2003 there was a devastating flash flood that took the lives of 239 people, and destroyed everything in its way. It took 8 months to rebuild the town and reopen. Today the younger generations are helping ecotourism thrive again, as many of them speak English, and are training to become jungle guides.

Feeling a little bitter about the last scam, we proudly decide to walk to our guest house instead of taking the local tuk-tuk. An easy two-kilometer stroll to relieve our legs? It could have been, yes, if it wasn’t for the torrential rain, creeping twilight, unsteady flip flops and getting lost in a small village. Google Maps did not know that this town is separated by a river, with only a few bridges to traverse it that small cars or tuk-tuks cannot cross - hence not showing as streets. A nice local gets us back on track and points to the closest bridge. “Thomas’ house is on the other side, on the right after you cross.” Ah... the bridge - a skinny wooden white bridge in a tall arc, maybe a meter wide and 50 meters long, cables swinging in the rain, almost no light in the dark night of the surrounding jungle, and, of course, dubious wood planks. It had a real uncanny resemblance to many nightmares I had when I was young (read: 30 y-o). Madie and I look at each other - “Are we really doing this?” I ask - “I guess so.” She always finds the words to make me feel better. We take slow steps, clinging on to the ramp; I’m doing my best to look at my feet without looking at the void below. A third in, the side ramp is broken for a couple meters, removing all notion of security (as if I had any). And for the full cliché, there are few missing planks halfway through the bridge. Lovely. The thing with nightmares is that they’re a lot less scary in real life. For the first time in all my dreams, I manage to step over the gap and pass the bridge, drenched in the rain. I add an evil laugh for full effect.

The infamous bridge of nightmares, which we had to cross in the dark and in the rain.

We cross a bit of jungle (only because I miss the real pathway 10 meters away) and get safe and sound to Thomas’ Retreat, a beautiful guest house set against the jungle and with a view of the river. We fill up on warm pumpkin curry and chicken satay, chatting with the young hosts, jungle guides in training. We learn about the remote girlfriend tradition (apparently a real thing, western girls enamored with the jungle and their adventurous guides - like me, right Madie?), the concert they’re playing at later tonight and the park we’re about to trek in. Their excitement about the jungle is contagious; they want to show people their beautiful country and, more than anything, educate so it doesn’t go away. Tourists are welcome here because they bring an economy that does not destroy the forest, unlike the palm plantations causing devastating deforestation all over Sumatra. We stroll around town the first day, crossing all the skinny bridges connecting the two sides of Bukit Lawang, looking at naked kids jumping in the river and going down the currents. We prepare ourselves for a two-day trek hoping to see as many orangutans as we can.

The beautiful riverside town of Bukit Lawang is the gateway to Gunung Leuser National Park in North Sumatra, Indonesia.

The beautiful riverside town of Bukit Lawang is the gateway to Gunung Leuser National Park in North Sumatra, Indonesia.

Trekking through the jungles of North Sumatra.

Trekking through the jungles of North Sumatra.

We leave early the next morning, filled with banana pancakes, and covered with Deet to fend off the mosquitos of the rubber plantation. Johnny, our guide, sets the pace in front as we approach the park and gives us the ceremonial talk. There are simple rules: be nice with the orangutans, approach carefully, and start walking away if told to. We walk up and down the many hills of the park for a couple hours, using lianas to support us, always wary of where we put our hands (you don’t want to wake up a snake).  At the top of a hill, we finally see the first ones, a mother and its infant nestled in the trees. Female orangutans only have one child at a time; the child will stay with her for 8 years before leaving, slowly learning the ways of the jungle: how to make a new nest every day, how to find food, and how to stay out of trouble. The males are harder to find, as they constantly travel between tree tops, in search of the next female. After a couple hours of dense jungle, it suddenly feels that we’re in their home, and it’s an unforgettable moment. Orangutans look at us with human eyes and so much meaning, with more human expressions than my 10th-grade German teacher. We touch their hands and fur; some guides give them fruits - the orangutans know exactly how many are behind their back. We stick around just to be with them.

Up close and personal with one of the orangutans at Gunung Leuser National Park in North Sumatra, Indonesia. It was a joy to observe them eating fruits, playing in the trees, building nests, and interacting with each other.

Up close and personal with one of the orangutans at Gunung Leuser National Park in North Sumatra, Indonesia. It was a joy to observe them eating fruits, playing in the trees, building nests, and interacting with each other.

Throughout the day, we also encounter white-handed gibbons and Thomas Leaf monkeys; we meet Mina, an old orangutan known for her aggressive behavior (she’ll follow us to our lunch spot, making us flee away and lose tomatoes in the process); we meet Jackie and her child, another famous orangutan, this one known to be nice and hold hands with passing tourists. Jackie is holding a tourist’s hand and is pretending to bite it as she looks at the guide, hoping for some fruits in exchange. The trek continues through the jungle; we climb down hills holding on to lianas larger than my arm, pass small rivers at the bottom, only to go up again a steep path - a slow but exhausting walk through the lush emerald jungle. A large rhinoceros hornbill quacks and flies over us at the top of the hill, landing on a nearby branch, showing proudly its beak and horn.

After 7 hours of trekking, we finally get to the camp for a well-deserved rest. Johnny has to go back to town already - he feels compelled to thank us for visiting his jungle and respecting it; we feel thankful and blessed to have met him. He leaves us in the good hands of Olo, the camp cook and master entertainer, and Sonny, our guide for the next day. We stay with our new friends, Marine, Joh and Manu, and spend a night of game and laughter with Olo and his crew, deep in the smell of the clove cigarettes - Olo’s laugh is as contagious as it gets. Joh took a silent wish for the duration of the trek; her face lights up when we try to cheat during the games. We solve brain teasers and learn the tricks of the 3-4-5-6 stone game scam. We talk about life in town and in the jungle; we learn about the flash flood a few years ago, taking the life of a few hundred people in Bukit Lawang in less than 15 minutes. We all head to bed in the camp, and again, I can’t truly believe we're sleeping in the jungle.

Our jungle kitchen and shelter for one night. We drank river water boiled over a fire pit, and ate the most delicious bergedel, chicken rendeng, tempeh, and some of the sweetest fruits we’ve ever had. 

Our jungle kitchen and shelter for one night. We drank river water boiled over a fire pit, and ate the most delicious bergedel, chicken rendeng, tempeh, and some of the sweetest fruits we’ve ever had. 

Sonny takes us all back the next day (after a heavy breakfast), and after a short raft ride down the river, we stop for another 3 hours of trekking and more orangutans. We stay with a mother and its infant for another hour, as Joh and Marine slowly fall in love with them. I understand then that Joh’s silent wish is to experience this trip to the fullest and be most mindful of this experience. I might try it, I tell myself, but only when I can make sure Madie won’t feel too lonely. As we get back in town, her wish ends - and her voice starts filling the room. She has a lot of catching up to do, and we all have a lot to talk about after such an experience.

After the blues of Komodo and Kawah Ijen, after the bright colors and pretty pastels of Bali and Yogyakarta, Sumatra and Bukit Lawang took us to verdant greens and bright oranges. In Indonesia, we saw nature as we never imagined, from the depth of Komodo to the lush jungle of Gunung Leuser; we swam with manta rays and counted oranges with orangutans. We explored the Hindu and Buddhist past in Bali and Yogyakarta, marveled at the vibrant canang saris and waterworn walls of the water palace. We lived Ramadan in the streets of many cities, listening to the Muezzin’s song, getting filled with street food at the wrong time. We went up the raw paths of volcanoes at dark hours to tickle our throats; we drove on a motorcycle in the pouring rain. We haggled, avoided tourist traps, still paying too much the scammers. But maybe more importantly, we went through it all with the warmth of the Indonesians, guiding our way to make sure we saw the beauty of their country. There would be too many names to write and to thank, but we remember all of them, their smiles, laughs and clove cigarettes.

Indah means beautiful in Indonesian, coincidentally giving root to a well-named country. In 28 days, Indonesia took us through quite a trip, with all its colors and characters, each island with its identity and richness. We saw too little of Indonesia in the end, but it will bring us back, cantik Madie and I, to the jungle, the sea or the temples - or maybe next time to the tribes near Papua New Guinea. For now, it’s time for a short flight to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia.

Tips and Links

  • The Gunung Leuser National Park is a protected forest and is part of the World Heritage site: the Tropical Rainforest Heritage of Sumatra. It is one of the only two remaining natural habitats for Sumatran orangutans and is also home elephants, tigers, rhinoceroses and more.
  • Oil palm farming and illegal logging are still large threats to the park and its diversity. This is from a report in 2011: “Despite being protected by federal law from any form of destructive encroachment, illegal logging is still rampant in the forest, with the foliage of the Leuser ecosystem disappearing at a rate of 21,000 hectares per year.” How to help? Support low-impact ecotourism to provide another economy to the region, buy sustainable palm oil FSC-certified products, and go visit the orangutans!
  • Bukit Lawang is the village at the entrance of the Gunung Leuser park. It’s a little bit of an adventure to get there. We roughed it up with a bus ride, but you can also find private drivers through your hotel for Rp 500,000 - 600,000. More info at bukitlawang.com/Transport 
  • Thomas’ Retreat was a great place to stay, with some of the best food in town. They also organize treks in the jungle.